GLOCK IN ACTION

FINISHED PRODUCT:

Glockenspiel Complete! (Figure 78)

  
[Video Clip] Chromatic Scale:

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS - DAY 9

TUNING THE BARS:

With the bars cut and the holes drilled (Figure 74), we can now begin the process of tuning them. All of the bars that have been cut should be already producing a note. In fact a glockenspiel bar vibrates in many ways simultaneously, so its distinctive sound is actually many simultaneous notes happening together. The main note that gives us the identifying pitch though is the only one that we are going to actually tune for this instrument, and it is called the “fundamental”.

We can see that the vibrating bar is not moving at the nodal points - where we have drilled the holes (Figure 75). This explains why we can support the bars on the frame at these points without dampening the vibration of the note. It also means that when we are hitting the bar to test the note it will greatly help if we hit the bar in the middle, and touch the bar as little as possible, and at the nodal points. This will produce the strongest fundamental note that we are trying to tune.

If the bar dimensions are correct and all is well, you should find that the fundamental note that all the bars produce before tuning begins, is well above the target pitch. We can test this with the tuner or by ear. To lower the pitch of the bar to where we want it to be, we must remove some of the steel from the area of the bar where the antinode is. That means right in the middle of the bar or as close to it as we can get. I have found that the fastest and easiest way to is to use the drill press with a medium sized drill bit (Figure 76). You don’t want to drill all the way through the bars of course, but on the underside of the bars you start drilling a number of holes all closely grouped around the middle of the bar (Figure 77). Some bars will need a lot more drilling than others to reach target pitch, so test each bar thoroughly and often as you tune it.

The idea is to test the bar pitch, then drill away a little more from the middle of the bar, then test the bar pitch again. You will find that as the pitch gets lower, the lowering effect also accelerates which means you usually don’t need to drill as much as you estimate you should. It pays to be cautious, if you accidentally drill too much, it is difficult to raise the bar’s pitch again a significant amount so drill gradually.

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS - DAY 8

MAKING MALLETS:

Other than the instrument itself, the mallets you use are the biggest contributor to the sound you get. The hardest head creates the brightest and most brittle sound. The size and density of the head will change the tone and pitch of the mallet when used on the instrument.

   1.  Measure and mark the length of the shafts (250mm) (Figure 66).
   2.  Mark area that needs to be shaved down (Figure 67).

   3.  Cut dowel using stanley knife (Figure 68).

   4.  Sand end using disk sander (Figure 69).

   5.  Feed dowel into drill press and sand while spinning (Figure 70).
   6.  Widen the core of the bead with a 3.5mm drill bit (Figure 71).

   7.  Attach wooden bead to the end of the dowel, it should be a very tight fit (Figure 72).   

   8.  Mallets complete! (Figure 73). 

 

CONSTUCTION PROCESS - DAY 7

ADDING THE BASE: 

  

    1.   Place frame on pine base (Figure 56) and trace around edges (Figure 57).

    2.  Cut base using bandsaw (Figure 58).
    3.  Measure and mark points for tacks (evenly spaced 10mm from the outside edge) 

         (Figure 59).

4.   Using a tack hammer nail in tacks (Figure 60 - 62).

   5.  Case complete! (Figure 63).

   6. Slide rails back into slots (Figure 64).

   7. Hammer in pins to secure suspension and trim off any extra tubing using scissors

       (Figure 65).

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS - DAY 6

ADJUSTING THE RAILS:

   1.  Trim off all the excess timber from the rails using the bandsaw (Figure 48, 49).

   2.  Slide rails into slots making sure they are square with the outside frame (Figure 50, 51).

ANGLING THE INNER FRAME:

   1.  Angle inner frame to match the level of each rail, cut using bandsaw (Figure 52 - 55).

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS - DAY 5

ALIGNING THE RAILS:

  1.  Temporarily lay rails over the main frame, the alignment is crucial. This is to ensure that 

       the spacing and angle of the slots are correct (Figure 40).

  2.  Mark where each rail is resting on the inside frame (Figure 41).

 

    3.  Measure and mark the depth of each slot on the inside frame (39mm for the two front rails 

         and 49mm for the two back rails).

    4.  Cut slots using a bandsaw and chocks to maintain correct angle (Figure 42, 43).

    5.  Carefully chisel out the inside section (Figure 44).

    6.  Slide inside frame into case (Figure 45, 46).

 

    7.  Slide rails into slots (Figure 47). 

 

CONSTRUCTION PROCESS - DAY 4

BUILDING THE CASE:

1.  Measure and mark the lengths for the outside frame, refer to blueprint for dimensions   

     (Figure 24).

2.  Square up each corner (Figure 25). 

3.  Set a 5° angle and transfer the angle onto each piece (Figure 26).

4.  Using a steel square mark a right angle along each side, (this will be a guide when you 

     are sanding) (Figure 27).

5.  Cut off excess timber using a bandsaw (Figure 28).

6.  Sand each end on a 5° angle so it will sit flush with the other pieces (Figure 29).

7.  Line up each piece to make sure they are square, use weights to hold into position  

     (Figure 30, 31).

8.  Repeat process for each end of the inner frame, using correct dimensions (Figure 31).

9.    Transfer the 5° angle as a guide for the screws (Figure 32).

10.   Extend this guide line down the side of the timber (Figure 33).

11.   Measure 20mm from each side and mark points for the screws (two screws will be 

       used in each end) (Figure 34).

12.  10G x 30mm screws, a 3.5mm and a 4mm drill bit will be used to fasten the main frame

       (Figure 35).

13.  Using a 3.5mm drill bit, drill pilot holes as a guide for each screw (Figure 36).

14.  Holding the timber firmly in position, drill two guide holes for the screws (Figure 37).

15.  Drill 4mm pilot holes in the outside pieces of timber to make it easier for the screws to 

       enter.

16.  Once the holes have been drilled - use two screws and get them started in the holes 

       (Figure 38).

17.  Power drive screws into holes (Figure 39).